Holy Amarnath pilgrimage.....Om Namah Shivay!

Holy Amarnath pilgrimage......Om Namah Shivay

Many a momentous journey begins with a chance encounter ! Has it ever happened to you? My first trek in college happened because someone dropped out at the last minute. And this pilgrimage was the fruit of one such encounter. One evening outing with a group of friends, last goodbyes, a chance remark by one, and the wistfulness in my face....she calls up next week to ask me if I'm keen to join her group leaving for the holy cave in 15 days!! Because one person dropped out. Truly, these journeys happen only when you are called upon by the Gods themselves...Chalo bulawa aaya hai!

All the group bookings were already in place, I just needed to obtain leave from work, and the requisite paperwork for the journey. And we were on our way! Morning flight to Srinagar, the heaven on earth, was full of awe for me, my first visit to the place, and flying over the mighty Himalayas gave a different perspective of the world of mountains.....and the world in general. 

Since the stay was prearranged in the regal, palatial hotel, it was a comfortable ride and pleasant time getting to know others in the group, over lunch at another hotel with most scenic location and view of the Dal lake, which we later explored, along with other landmarks of this beautiful city. Few were experienced pilgrims of past 10 years, while some were first timers. We were supposed to start early morning at 3am for Baltal helipad via Sonmarg. Hence we were awake till 1 am..chatting!!  Morning taxi ride started soon enough, and we had to wait at a check post soon after Sonmarg. We were to carry enough woolens for the walk on the glacier, and a small load for the helicopter ride ahead. Sunrise gave face to the singing river Indus as the solo playback singer, and the dark looming peaks and glaciers, turned luminous gold in front of our eyes. Million Hindi movie scenes flashed before my eyes and the driver played old songs from those movies, to help develop the scenario. 

 

The scene at Baltal helipad was of tumultuous crowds all in que to get into the constantly chugging choppers of the provider companies. Our experienced team leader managed to push us all through the crowded hall onto the field. After the mandatory selfie and catching the tails of flying scarves into the jackets, and flying hairs into caps, we stuffed ourselves into the available seats for that ecstatic ride through the mountain corridors, to our next stop of Panchtarni. This was a clearing in the valley besides the river Amaravati. On the way we could see rows of pilgrims on foot, ponies or chair meandering their way slowly along the other route from Baltal.

Upon reaching Panchtarni, we came through more security cordons to find a chair ride for everyone in the group. Few of us had the urge to trek all the 6km upto the holy cave, but the others discouraged it, from their experience, and we discovered later, why. Once the day breaks, crowds grow in size, and the narrow cleared path over the glacier is the scene of massive jams, and many have slipped and fell on the slippery slopes. But, being ourselves, we did manage to walk 3-4 km on the way back!


                             

Although we were moving over the glacier, the porters were sure footed and moved pretty constantly, and we were within viewing distance of the cave in about 2 hours. There were plenty of camping sites within a km range of the cave, for those wishing to rest, even overnight. And the rest of the path was lined with small tuck shops playing loud music in praise of the deity, and selling trinkets. Army arrangements were aplenty, for toilets, resting chairs, medical care, warm drinks and even free delicious piping hot meals -- bhandaras arranged by devotees could be seen. We did partake of one such, on our way back, and felt blessed and refreshed.

Now, onward to the holy cave for barfani baba's blessings! The big cave takes 535 steps to climb, and the steep fast climb had already made us hypoxic and giddy. The chairs and our little backpack had to be left behind with the porters , although 2 of them offered to climb up (haul up, in some cases) with their protégé, on the steps, all the way for darshan. A little story of the cave, and the pair of pigeons..... It is narrated as the place where Lord Shiva agreed to narrate the secret of immortality to his wife Parvati. This was found to be a secluded spot and he arranged for a ring of fire to eliminate every living being from in and around the cave. As a matter of chance, a pair of pigeons overheard the story and became immortal, and can be still spotted in the cave, inspite of such high altitude and harsh weather. 

The huge cave itself is a natural one, with one large and two smaller stalagmites , in the form of Shivling, the divine lingam. The curious part is, there is no visible snow or any source of water over the all stone cave, from which these could have formed. There's a barricade to prevent the milling devotees from reaching out and touching the holy sanctum. However, you can buy a flask to take home the holy water from the stream of melting snow a little below. You can rest a few minutes, catch your breath, filled with wonder, and watch the two lone pigeons flying about, perching on the ledges in the cave. Fill your heart with peace, bliss and awe, be humbled in front of the superpowers, watch the other devotees...some even 70 years old, semi naked, backs doubled with age and bare footed over the cold stone, and feel a drop of that ocean within each of us. Congratulations! You just became a believer, a pilgrim. This is the effect of this journey on you...even the stubborn ones turn believers!