Puri, Konark and Kolkata

Puri, Konark and Kolkata

The yet unexplored East, or the charm of Gujarat coast? Such a profound question after the exams are over. Google for the nearest beach from land-locked heart of India, reaching out to its limbs. And the answer leaves with few more options other than the usual Goa. Gujarat was visited few months ago, along with pristine sands of Daman and Dandi. So the choice got tilted in favor of Eastern states …..Puri, Bhubaneswar, Konark, Kolkata…..the land of sweets and beautiful beaches, temples and nature’s beauty at its purest. Loads of research later, we formed our own itinerary to experience as much of the local treats as possible in the short time away. It was vacation time for the world, it seemed, from the flight and train booking sites.Many bookings and cancellations later, we decided upon train journey to Bhubaneswar in Rajdhani.

There is something almost poetic about exploring the width of the land using train as a means of transportation. The slow unfolding of the terrain to the rhythmic chugging of the train gives one plenty of time and leisure to consume, digest and churn one visual treat and get familiar with it, before being impacted by a totally new vista.One can contemplate sunset at peace which you could never find in the hectic routine at home. It is almost like a slow relaxing, deep breathing exercise to deeply inhale the sights and exhale out your stresses…..even the unexpected one of Rajdhani delayed by almost 10 hours...unheard of, but we had the experience and found ways to embrace it, too. It was of course made easier by having friendly co passengers and a windfall in the form of an absent berth holder which gave us an extra lower berth. Also, it saved us from having to look for accommodation in Bhubaneswar for overnight stay, since we were more keen on staying at Puri. The delays on the way made sure we reached our destination way past midnight, and were well advised to immediately catch another train to reach Puri in time to view sunrise by the beach! And saved us a day's costly hotel rent too!

Puri, the city of pristine beaches, abode of Lord Jagannath, simple people, simple food, awesome seafood, rocking waves of Bay of Bengal...oh so much promise of a good time. It is a small city, with easily available autos between a clean sand line and the Jagannath temple, the two points between which we divided our time. We made an early morning check in to the hotel, within walking distance of the temple which dominates the rhythm of this city...one of the Char Dhams of Hindu religion. Lord Jagannath, another name for lord Krishna along with his brother Balabhadra and sister Subhadra adorn the sanctum of the ancient 12th century temple. There are many tales of Krishna’s stay at Puri and nearby towns which are recounted with much love and fondness by the locals. The temple itself was founded by Shankaracharya in 9th century and established by the reigning king AnantaVarman in 12th century, and visited by Chaitanya Mahaprabhu in later centuries and has been restored since. Every year the lord makes his journey to the resting place in the Gundicha temple nearby and back , with much fanfare and followed by millions of devotees, in the famous RathYatra. The large scale of the journey has led to evolution of the term Juggernaut to denote a huge unstoppable run of events.

After paying our respects to the lord to seek his blessings, we rested awhile and proceeded to the beach where we spent most of the remaining day. A run on the waters in a jet ski added some thrill to the day, and made us comfortable with the waves. Playing in the sand has the power to transform any adult into a carefree, laughing child...maybe works like a time machine? The awe inspiring sand art work being created in front of us , also attracted many others and we clicked hundreds of pictures. Some exploring of the nearby shops led us to a delicious lunch of fish curry and chicken curry. The restaurant owner was friendly and chatty and the meal was delicious and lip smacking ….wonderful! We made a booking with state tourism office for a bus ride to the nearby spots of interest, for next two days.

Next day started early in a tourist bus full of enthusiasts like us, eager to soak it all in. Quick cuppa to kick start the journey, and pack a few snacks, and we were off. Stopping at the Ramachandi temple, and a piping hot plate of luchchi and aloo sabzi for breakfast, and the day promised to be good. The guide pointed out the quiet Chandrabhaga beach on the way, which has been closed to casual visitors.  Our guide kept us informed and entertained with folklore about anecdotes of Lord Krishna’s adventures.   Reaching the Konark sun temple, now a UNESCO heritage site, built in the shape of chariot of the Sun god, destroyed over the centuries by winds from the sea and waves of time and invaders. The beautiful architecture speaks of the splendor of the times gone by, when everything was built to last. The wonderful symmetry and grand sculptures speak of the sophistication in art and culture achieved, which seems to have sadly withered away now.

Moving further on to the city of temples, Bhubaneshwar, the capital of Odisha, we stopped by to visit the Buddhist shanti stupa on the Dhauli hillock.The amalgamation of cultures and religions seems so precious in our vast multicultural land, where so many schools of thought found a fertile ground and reached their pinnacle. Lingaraj temple of lord Shiva, Sidheshwar temple, Mukteshwar temple, Kedar Gouri temple, Jain meditation caves of Khandagiri and Udayagiri hills, all exist side by side in this glorious city of temples. Nandan Kanan zoo and lion safari graced us with sightings of Royal Bengal tiger, regal lion and lioness, sloth bears, king Cobras and crocodiles, and animals of all shapes and sizes….fruitful safari indeed!

Next day we explored the region further, to Chilika lake, a massive lagoon on the mouth of the Bay of Bengal.We started early morning to approach the Satapada entry point to the lake (one of 4 designated entry points), famous for Dolphin sighting. To view the migratory birds from Siberia and other colder climates, another entry point, Nalabandan is preferred at this time of the year. Our guide kept us informed and entertained with folklore about anecdotes of Lord Krishna’s adventures. Visited the Alarnath temple and passed Dahikhia bridge on the Mahanadi river,to reach the boat boarding point.The lake area has a rich biodiversity of flora and fauna, as we learnt from the 10 min. movie show at the visitor centre, also our lunch break for delicious Chilika fish curry...yummy!  The small ferry carried about 20 of us to our journey to glimpse those elusive, playful Irawaddy Dolphins, screaming sea birds, mouth of the lagoon entering the sea, to finally reach the shore of tiny Rajhans island, barely 5 minutes of cross walk, to reach the Bay of Bengal on its other shore. The small strip of sandy bushy land has shops selling the most exquisite seafood preparations that you don't want to miss! We tasted a few spicy prawns, and got mesmerized by the tubfuls of shells, corals,oysters, fish, prawns on display. The seller saw his business opportunity and broke a few oyster shells and red and green corals to bring forth the pearls of the sea, to our hands, literally. Seeing our excited faces, he wanted to go on and sell us all his stock, but we managed to stop him after a few….what an experience, though! Beauty in its raw form!

We had to catch the night train to Kolkata, our next stop (saving another night’s hotel rent!), but not before treating ourselves to one last delicious meal near the seashore. Kolkata, the capital city of West Bengal is 500 km. away from Puri. It is known for the fondness of its residents for music, literature, oldest underground metro rail network, sweets, seafood, textiles and cultural heritage. We figured our way through the city with its various modes of transport...ubiquitous yellow cab, tram, metro, bus, and on foot to discover the rich heritage. Fashionable market area of Park street, where we stayed, and its fancy eateries, the Christmas decor, live musical performances, food stalls and oldest college buildings, all created a heady mix. We searched it's vast book markets, memorials, parks and coffee shops, and watched the sunset sitting in a boat on the Hooghly river near the Howrah bridge...what a sight! We sang old favorite movie songs and realized what inspired the poets to write songs of the water and the boat and sun and wind! Very romantic setting, indeed, as the young crowd at the ghat also obviously enjoyed.

Next day was spent seeking out hidden gems of eateries and more exploration of the temples. Wish we had few more days to visit the Sunderbans delta for its forest and wildlife. We had to bid adieu to this wonderful mix of ancient  and youthful, this city of joy, to catch our evening flight back home. We shall be back soon!!

Sikkim, Darjeeling ....paradise of the East

Sikkim, Darjeeling....paradise of the East

A period of long planning sometimes goes in when everybody makes time to get together for a trip of a lifetime. Multiple calls to travel agent, scheduling and rescheduling when University postponed an exam, pre booking our stay options, all travel modes discussed ; it still can't ensure a hassle-free run. Yet, a perfect trip comes out of all these, just because you did one thing right….pick up the best place for a summer escape from Delhi. Yes! Sikkim-Darjeeling  is one such 6-day trip made of sweet memories.

Having always heard of the mesmerizing beauty of Darjeeling, immortalized by Satyajit Ray in his unforgettable movie ..Kanchenjunga, which I watched after the trip, on YouTube, just to relive the magic of those fog-laden forest lanes. And the beautiful green mountains of Sikkim were only better because of the friendly, gentle, hospitable nature of all the people we met on the trip.

Our trip started with a 2 1/2 hour flight to Bagdogra, the closest airport to Sikkim, which will soon be developing its own airport. The whole state is accessible by road - taxis in our case, and all 4 parts of this small state need separate permits to run the taxis. Pre booking ensured that there was not much waiting at any point, we were whisked away after touchdown, by a 3 hour, 70 km drive in a comfortable ride, to Darjeeling, through stunning scenic roads lined with tea gardens, to our rooms. The flip side being, you were stuck in a hotel in a crowded part of the city, with not much choice to go out and explore the mountainside.

We managed to make the best of our stay, by finding the shortest route to the vibrant, ubiquitous Mall Road, a feature of all hill towns. The view of sunrise over Kanchenjunga, 3rd highest peak in the world, from Tiger Hills is the high point of anyone's visit to this hill town. We started very early in morning, to complete the 25km ride in time to meet the first rays over the mighty peak. We discovered we were not the only early risers, in fact, the scene at 4 am in morning would give a competition to the jostling traffic jam of any big metro. The skillful driver made his way to the rendezvous, and a pleasant walk uphill for the last mile was invigorating, made more attractive by the scores of tea vendors with their huge flasks of steaming cuppa for all the adventurous souls. We found our perch, and gazed at the peak…..and kept waiting! The sun and the peak decided to shy away from our voyeuristic eyes, and gave everyone a miss! The clouds stubbornly maintained their cover, and it was not to be. We later gleaned from the driver that the clearest skies and best views of the mountains are enjoyed in October and November months. Well, another time! Wisps of clouds kept us company on those winding roads all the way back. We stopped for a while to take a short walk through a tea garden, with legendary tea, sold all over the world from this part of India. The prices ranged from a few hundred to few thousands per kg, with tea tasting provided at the sale centers.

How can anyone miss the iconic steam train ride when in this city! We jumped out of our taxi near the Ghoom station, as the starting point of our little joy ride, and assured our hapless taxi driver that we'll find our way back to the hotel after the ride, and let him go. We were fortunate to find one ready to leave, got the tickets and jumped in. Such childlike excitement in the toylike train, chugging its way down the winding tracks, alongside bustling traffic on the roads! It takes a turn back along the Batasia loop over the rising hillock, and gives a perfect view of Mt. Kanchenjunga , which is what has been replicated in all Indian currency notes. But the clouds had maintained their cover all throughout and we promised ourselves to be back in clear weather. A gentle walk through the streets took us to the Mall, where I met with my long lost friend from college, after a long long gap. Blessed, indeed!

Next morning we started for our next stop, Pelling, a small town in West Sikkim, giving a closer view of Mt. Kanchenjunga, being right in the lap of the Himalayan range. It was a beautiful 3 1/2 hours on the road, the scenery becoming more stunning as we made our way deeper into the state. The hillsides were bursting with rhododendron, the state tree. Greenery alongside the roads was soothing to the senses, as was the music played in the taxi ...perfect joy ride!

        

We were dropped at the hotel, which was not to our liking, and this time we haggled our way out, and were dropped to the neighboring one, with a board outside, proudly declaring its top rating because of its food! Well, that was just too good to miss, and we enjoyed their dining room every waking moment …..no, just kidding! But the reviews were true and we had delicious meals made to order, every time. And the rooftop was the place to be, if you wanted a view of the mountains. But for the best view at sunrise, we took a morning walk to the highest point of town, the old helipad, which gives a breathtaking 360* clear view of the ranges, so up close. But, just our luck, clouds again!

The rest of the day we went to nearby places, the beautiful Darap valley with elaichi plants everywhere, the state producing one of the finest black cardamom. Rimbi waterfalls, Rock garden, Kanchenjunga falls, Rabdentse ruins which was where the old capital used to be. Khechupelri lake was another stopover with plenty for the religious minded, and the nature lover alike.

Early next morning we made our way to Gangtok, the state capital, in Eastern part, about 120 km away. Beautiful green hillsides, with rhododendron bushes, roadside vegetable stalls where we found the Dalle mirchi, homemade yak paneer and interesting variety of veggies. A long traffic snarl due to broken road and a flat tyre gave us time to walk around, enjoy the view and take memorable pictures back home. Reaching late in Gangtok, we had to again argue through a poorly chosen hotel, and landed ourselves into one, in the heart of the city near the MG Marg. Gangtok is a charming city bustling with traffic and crowds, yet the well maintained pavements and the numerous benches scattered around the market areas make it a very pedestrian friendly city. The market area in the centre of the city, MG Marg has a variety of stores with fashionable clothes, shoes, wonderful bakeries, restaurants with delicious food and is full of life ‘till late in the evening. Famous Sikkim tea gardens have their outlet stores here and again, let you sample the tea before buying it. The people here are very proud of their organically grown food, which it is famous for.

As a preparation for the early next morning trip, we had to submit ID papers a night before, so that permit to visit areas near the border -- the Tsongmo lake, Nathula pass and Baba Mandir could be procured on time. It was a 45km ride by taxi, and the driver had our papers ready by morning. The permit had to be stamped and verified again befor entering the army controlled area, after about 4-5 km of starting from taxi stand, and our driver again managed to dodge long queues. State government issues a limited number of permits per day, specially for Nathula, hence the application has to be made from Delhi, by the travel agency. The beautiful ride is through army cantonment and photography is prohibited. Certain areas near the pass have notices to tell you that you are on a lower ground than the neighboring army checkpoint and are being watched….spooky!! Well maintained wide roads, barely any civilian population, and nearly barren mountainsides marked our ride. Tsongmo lake is shaped like a slipper from afar, and was covered with wisps of fog. Few locals had lined the road with tea stalls and colorful yaks to make picture memories with, which we dutifully did! Onwards to learn the legend of Baba Harbhajan, who was an army man who after fulfilling his earthly duties, is now looking after his colleagues in the area and protecting them from evil forces of nature. In his honour, the army has built a relic to his memory and we paid our respects to the spirit of camaraderie and loyalty and support of the departed armyman. The tall tricolor nearby evokes the patriotic spirit in every visitor’s heart.

On our way back we could see the tall statue of Shiva from afar, and were told the area has a version of Chardham , so important to all spiritual and devout Hindus. Trading goods trucks to and from China were seen parked at the depot and few tea stalls were also selling packed foods and clothes and toys from over the pass.

Back to the bustle of the city, we satisfied the foodie within, by tasting delicious treats from the select bakery and were spoilt for choice for meals at the restaurants, obviously skipping the complimentary dinner at our hotel. Even got some confectionary packed for breakfast! Tea- shopping was mandatory and we got enough for gifting, and to last us until the next visit!!

The drive back to Bagdogra airport next day was through some wonderful scenic areas and Teesta river with its winding flow kept us company after we crossed over the bridge into West Bengal. The whole route is very beautiful with nature’s bounty in plenty, though the visible poverty of the people is heart wrenching and the almost invisible infrastructure here leaves much to be desired.